What NOT to plant for fire season

I have always loved what I call the “Tucson Gardening Style“. No broad swathes of grassy lawn browning in the sunshine. No water-guzzling attempts at English flower garden borders limp in the heat. Just native plants left where they were growing before any house was built: prickly pear cacti squeezed side-by-side with creosote bushes and saguaros and agaves and chollas and mesquites. And most of the time these Sonoran desert natives grow right up to the side of the house.

But on June 5th, after the Bighorn wildfire burst into life north of Tucson, this native plant gardening style suddenly seemed less charming and more threatening.

At first the Bighorn fire was just billowing smoke high up in the Santa Catalina Mountains. By June 9 when I drove around northern Tucson to to take photos for another blog, I began to realize an inferno would result if this fire reached down into the upscale Catalina Foothills neighborhood which had only hours before been designated as a threatened evacuation zone.

As I took a few pictures I also realized that in California, where I used to live, the “Tucson Gardening Style” would bring the fire service knocking at the door armed with chain saws and big fines. The law in California is that there must be a 100 foot cleared open space around a home and it is aggressively enforced.

There is, however, such a live-and-let-live “Nobody’s going to tell me what to do” outlook by many Arizonans that it is unlikely that type of regulation would ever be passed here.

Okay, while I live in Arizona now I’m going to ignore local attitudes regarding plants because wildfires happen here and throughout the Western United States. Here are some recommendations about garden plantings to help prevent your home turning into an pile of burnt rubble from an urban or wild fire.

First, clear plants away from the sides of your home and other buildings. Don’t let any shrubs or trees touch or almost touch a building. If the plants catch fire — even if ignited by sparks from a neighbor’s BBQ instead of a wildfire–your home could burst into flames before you even notice it.

While many trees suitable for hot dry climates have oily leaves, the Australian-native Eucalyptus trees are among the worst. Sure, they smell so good, but they are 50 foot high torches just waiting for a little spark to light them. As much as they seem to be great trees for hot dry climates (fast growth, low water usage, lovely dappled shade), they are not. As witness: the massive fires racing through the Eucalyptus forests of Australia in recent years.

I have also seen palm trees burning as 50 foot high torches in Los Angeles during an urban fire, but while embers fell from the palms, they did not seems as potentially dangerous as a flaming eucalyptus with its branches whipping in the wind casting sparks all over the area.

For very a different reason don’t plant a Cottonwood, a major water-sucking plant. Again, it is a fast grower, but will guzzle every drop of water in the ground around it and deprive other plants of water, leaving them tinder-dry. Cottonwood roots will also invade your plumbing and septic systems.

One grass is on the Do Not Plant list:

Buffelgrass (Cenchrus ciliaris L., or Pennisetum ciliare L.) is often called white fountain grass. An African native, it grows and blooms quickly, then dies back to leave dry, quick-burning fields waiting for a lightning strike to start burning. This grass, a threat to native plants including Arizona’s famous Saguaro cactus, has been mentioned as a key factor in the origin of the Bighorn fire. You can view a new webinar on the topic of buffelgrass damage to the Saguaro National Park .

Red Fountain grass does not spread wildly like White Fountain Grass. And it looks lovely when the wind blows.

Instead of Buffelgrass, consider Red fountain grass (Cordyline) which is less invasive and stays where it is planted. The much larger South American-native Pampas grass (Cortaderia selloana) will also stay where it is planted in a desert climate, but not if there is a pond or stream nearby. In that case it becomes invasive forcing out native plants.

Now onto something more positive. While the evidence is anecdotal, a few homeowners have sworn that their huge water-logged agaves saved their homes during a wildfire. I’ve seen the photos and the agaves encircling the homes look as if they have melted, but the houses were spared. It’s important to note that there was a cleared space between the house and the agaves and beyond the agaves, too.

As for planting any trees or agaves, wait until fall. It is too hot now and there is a great risk that anything you plant will die of heat at this time of year no matter how much you water it. Don’t let the landscape guy tell you otherwise!

The Bighorn fire is still burning on June 19th, but because of a wind shift, it is moving northeast, away from Tucson proper. A photo of it taken yesterday is at the top of this post. According to reports over 3,000 Saguaros have already been destroyed, but–happy news–most of the wild animals in the fire path, including baby mountain goats, have escaped. And there has been no loss of homes or human life so far.

Here is what happens to an SUV when the Forest Service makes a Phos-Chek drop. It’s that red stuff fixed wing airplanes drop on the edges of fires.


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  6. Four desert trees good for soil, 4 toxic ones
  7. Plants that bloom even in mid-summer scorching heat
  8. Follow 90F degree rule for planting


Is it an attractive weed, a native plant or tasty edible?

Rather than giving you gardening advice for March today I’m going to tell you about one plant, which turned out to be more interesting than expected.

Moving from one desert, the Mojave, to another, the Sonoran, has meant that I am learning to identify many new native plants, among them, the Common Mallow (Malva neglecta). The name “neglecta” is so apt because my neglect has resulted in massive growth of this plant in a narrow yard beside my house.

Surprise! Not a native

Yesterday afternoon, after I wrote the headline for this post and the paragraph above, I discovered that while this variety of Mallow is as common as dirt here in Southern Arizona it is not a native at all. Not even a native plant of the Western Hemisphere. It’s origins are in Egypt, probably in Nile marshes. That makes sense because the leaves are so large and dark green which is very untypical of desert plants, for example, the Desert Mallow (Sphaeralcea ambigua).

mallow plants growing wild

Since like most of you I am home all the time because of COVID-19, I tentatively planned to start removing at least some of this mallow mini-field.

But after learning more I’m not sure what to do about it. If anything.

How to eliminate weeds 3 ways–or not

Should I listen to the Round-up folks who claim to make it easy to exterminate with a quick spray? (We all know about Round-up so I won’t write more about this option.)

Or how about going extreme like some here in Arizona and blowtorch the weeds–uh…the mallow? You read that right: some gardeners here use flaming blowtorches on weeds because that will kill the seeds, too, even ones that are under a layer of gravel. No blowtorch among my garden tools, so that eliminates this one.

Then came the suggestion of a third way for weed elimination. A couple of gardeners recommended mixing 55% vinegar with water and a dash of liquid soap, then spraying it on the weeds. I am tempted to test this idea–someday when I feel I can risk using the vinegar in my emergency pantry for something other than salad dressing.

The next option is re-wilding

Inspired by a British gardening movement to let wild native plants thrive along roadsides and in city squares, should I simply let my Mallow continue to grow? In the U.K. a Back-to-Natives trend is growing (pun intended!) in an effort to support other native species, including bees, badgers and other wildlife. I wonder if here in Arizona, rattlesnakes and scorpions may find the mallow mini-field a friendly habitat.

Or should follow the advice of two forager friends who pick leaves of dandelions and mallows for their salads?

Behold the multi-use vegetable

mallow blossoms and seeds

They have assured me Mallow is edible, that its seeds tastes like its cousin, Okra (Abelmoschus esculentus).

“Use it in a salad or cook it to thicken soups like gumbo,” they tell me.

Then they go on to add: “It’s really high in Vitamins A, B, and C as well as calcium, magnesium and potassium. Like kale.”

Like kale?

No thanks. (And please don’t reply with a list of all the health benefits of kale. Broccoli, which I love, also is vitamin-packed.)

This morning I was informed by yet another Arizona gardener of one more use for Common Mallow’s big, soft leaves: as toilet paper! Eureka! That’s the solution to the hoarding problem. Plant Mallow now and have a lifetime supply of t.p.

And if the coronavirus situation and the hoarding get worse, maybe I’ll start picking the Mallow leaves and selling them on a street corner as a multi-purpose vegetable for kitchen and bathroom.
Respect the weeds. Stay safe. Happy Gardening.


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  7. Plants that bloom even in mid-summer scorching heat
  8. Follow 90F degree rule for planting


Composting is an unnatural act…

Well, composting is unnatural in a hot dry climate where plants produce small leaves with waxy or oily exteriors, where grassy lawns are few and far between and where the air is, more often than not, dry as a bone.

Those are things that are antithetical to the natural composting that occurs in cooler, more forested zones where big leaves and/or lots of pine needles, weekly grass clippings from the lawn, and damp air make composting a normal part of the environment and is fairly easy for a gardener to do.

So because it is not a natural function in a hot dry climate, I’ve never written about it.

During this last month, however, I received an question about it so if you want to start composting, even though you are living in a hot dry climate, here is some advice.

First: the good news about compost. Compost is food for the soil. It loosens the soil hardened by heat and dry air and makes it easier for plant roots to grow deep. It enriches the earth with long-lasting nutrients. Used as a mulch on flower beds it can be protective.

But compost should not be used in place of fertilizer. Its carbon to nitrogen ratio is too unstable, too unpredictable to count on as a fertilizer. In fact, if the compost process isn’t fully complete, the compost may suck nitrogen right out of your soil. Compost that is “complete” is crumbly, not smelly, dark brown or almost black and will, very gradually over years, release some nutrients to your plants and help balance the pH in your garden.

composting food waste

Now to get started the first thing you are going to need is a place or a container to hold the garden and kitchen waste you want to turn into compost.

From left: beginning, middle and done with composting!

When I had a compost heap in my Santa Barbara garden, it was just that, a heap of grass clippings and leaves in the far corner of my backyard that had been started by the previous owner. If I was doing it again, I would have either set up attractive wooden bins or put everything into metal canisters that could be turned. (Live and learn!)

Then begin by adding biodegradable stuff, such as grass clippings, leaves, coffee grounds, sawdust, faded flowers, dead annuals, and even newspapers torn up into little bits. You need a mix of one part green stuff to 3 parts brown stuff for the best composting process. For green stuff you add things like grass clippings; brown stuff are things like chopped straw or old dead dry leaves.

Next, toss in a shovel or two of your native soil to jump-start the process. NO need to buy compost bacteria or fungi starter. Your native soil has what you need.

And dampen the whole thing. Don’t soak it. Just keep it damp like a sponge that has been wrung out. This is especially important in our dry climates. You may have to dampen it daily…or more often. If possible, keep your compost in the shade so it won’t dry out as quickly.

Be sure to turn it regularly so the decomposing process continues on all materials, not just those on outside. When you turn it you may discover it is warm or hot in the center. The center of the compost bin may heat up to 130F, which should kill all the wild seeds that ended in it. If it becomes too hot, that is a sign of excess carbon and you should add more green stuff, like grass clippings or weeds you pulled from your garden.

raccoon by wall

Now about food waste. If you are composting in a container, especially a revolving one up off the ground, toss in all the food waste you have. BUT, if your compost “bin” is actually a compost heap you may find wild raccoons and other hungry animals visiting it. They love those old apple cores, orange peels, rotting pumpkins, bananas and other food leftovers.

Do NOT put meat or dairy in your compost pile. It will not decompose quickly, will smell hideous and may attract vermin or dangerous bacteria to your garden. Also avoid leaves of oleander, they are poisonous. And avoid adding eucalyptus and salt cedar leaves.

I strongly recommend acquiring some type of plastic or metal compost bin. Some cities offer residents free compost bins, so call your local government to see if you can get one or two for free. There are also several on Amazon that look good, including a pink compost bin. One even claims to be able to make compost in two weeks! That’s fast! Composting usually takes months. Happy composting!


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  6. Four desert trees good for soil, 4 toxic ones
  7. Plants that bloom even in mid-summer scorching heat
  8. Follow 90F degree rule for planting


Look to South Africa for unusual off-season flowers

Our mild Autumn weather is almost a second Springtime, especially for gardeners who live at lower elevations in the desert with warm winters.  Plant pretty annuals like carpets in empty flower beds to replace any perennials that have died back. Take care not to disturb the roots of the perennials because they will be back next year.

Or fill pots on your patio to overflowing. At higher, cold-winter elevations it may be too late as the first winter storms have blanketed mountains with snow.

Should you dig up the flower bulbs?

While some people, particularly in the U.K. and New England, dig up their bulbs in Fall, in most of the U.S. southwest it is not necessary. But if you want to add flowers from bulbs, rhizomes and corms to your garden, now is the time to plant to assure yourself of Springtime flowers.

purple and white iris

Freesia and Iris are two of our favorites. Both require little water and no attention. The exception, however, are those re-blooming iris that flower in spring and fall which need heavy watering.

The incredibly fragrant Freesia dies back to the ground after blooming; the Iris keeps its leaves and provides an upright structural element in a garden border.

If you already have Iris, split and replant the rhizomes now for double the flowers next year. Do not plant them deep. Simply place them in a shallow trench and cover lightly–deep enough to protect from a freeze if you live in an area with occasional light freezes in winter.

About tulips: yes, you can plant the bulbs, but they really love a damper, milder climate — like the Netherlands or Seattle.

Flowers from South Africa

Gladiolus dalenii

You may be much better off planting bulbs native to South Africa, such as the freesia-like Tritonia or the Watsonia borbonica, which looks like a miniature gladiolus. The low-growing Babiana is a Sub-Sahara native also worth considering as an edging plant. It looks somewhat like a crocus and does well in a desert garden.

The Gladiolus (Gladiolus dalenii), above, a South African native, is a delicate variation on the large, sturdy upright “glads” of late summer. These bloom in Spring.

Salvia leucantha sage

One plant that is a joy for so many gardeners in California and the Southwest is the Mexican Bush Sage, Salvia leucantha ‘Midnight’ that blooms twice a year. Unlike re-blooming Iris, the Mexican Bush Sage is not a water guzzler. It naturally blooms in Spring and late Fall.  It is a super-tough plant with tall spires of purple or purple and white flowers that stay in bloom through December! One year I even clipped the flower stems and used them to decorate my Christmas tree. Tip: Cut it back to about 8 inches high in January and it will re-grow and bloom again in March.

Happy Thanksgiving to you!


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  6. Four desert trees good for soil, 4 toxic ones
  7. Plants that bloom even in mid-summer scorching heat
  8. Follow 90F degree rule for planting


Quinces and Figs thrive in the desert. Make great jam, too!

In 2014 Quinces (Cydonia oblonga) were named the Fruit Tree of the Year by the California Rare Fruit Growers Association. Well, maybe rare in California, but here in Tucson quince trees have been growing since the late 1600s. Brought to this locale by Jesuit Father Kino, one of the first Europeans to the area, later travelers complained that the only fruit tree in Tucson was the quince, which is basically inedible fresh off the tree. It has to be cooked and then it is delicious as a jam. I’m sure the travelers were hankering for juicy Spanish oranges or crisp German apples–but no luck. In Tucson hard quinces were the only choice.

Two quinces fro Tucson Presidio
These two quinces were given to me by a docent at the Tucson Presidio. The are unripe, hard, fuzzy outside and have no scent. More modern hybrids have a smooth peel and are fragrant when ripe.

While I have seen plenty of pomegranates growing in yards around Tucson I hadn’t seen a quince tree until I visited the replica of the original Tucson Presidio where a quince tree is planted side-by-side with a sweet Spanish orange tree and a lemon. As you can see, it is loaded with quinces, which are drought tolerant, sun and heat-lovers that need good drainage. Online it stated that 2 trees were needed for pollination, but this solo plant seems to be doing okay by itself. One other thing to note about quince trees: they are covered with lovely white flowers in Spring. So if you are thinking about adding a small tree to your hot, dry garden, maybe a quince is the tree for you. (Or maybe a fig–see below.)

Quince tree at Tucson Presidio Hot Gardens
The quince tree at the Tucson Presidio.

While quince trees are naturally small, fig trees can become enormous, as this fig, below, growing in one courtyard of the Tucson Presidio demonstrates. And it does not take decades to grow to this size. This Presidio was built from scratch on a former parking lot and opened in 2007, so this fig (and the quince above) are no older than 12 years!

fig tree in downtown Tucson Hot Gardens
A huge fig tree in the courtyard of the Presidio in downtown Tucson

In addition to producing delicious figs to eat raw or cook into jam, fig trees (Ficus carica) have large leaves that cast a dense shade to create a cool oasis in a desert garden. The ‘Black Mission’ and ‘Brown Turkey’ are good varieties for the desert. Most produce two crops of figs per year and need regular watering, especially when the fruit is growing. If you intend to plant a fig in your garden, be sure to ask the nursery staff how large the tree is expected to grow. Smaller size fig trees can be espaliered along a wall. (I know. I did this in my garden in Las Vegas!)

Pomegranates on the ground at the Tucson Presidio.

Now a word about pomegranates, which I have written about before because they are among the easiest and most forgiving of neglect of any fruit tree in a desert garden. There are ignored pomegranates on the ground all over my neighborhood, as well as at the Tucson Presidio. But it looks like they are providing food for birds and animals. A good thing!


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  1. Where to get free or cheap trees for your garden
  2. Six distinctively different landscapes to replace a lawn
  3. Cover up that naked wall
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  6. Four desert trees good for soil, 4 toxic ones
  7. Plants that bloom even in mid-summer scorching heat
  8. Follow 90F degree rule for planting


Crepe myrtle, the blooming belle of the South, needs help in a dry climate

On my continuing travels through Louisiana, I have noticed that few homes have anything that resembles a garden with shrubs and flowering plants artfully arranged.  The more common gardening feature is the lawn, a large mowed green area around the home.  Upon taking a closer look, I realized that many “lawns” are simply native grasses and other low growing plants sheared to slightly above ground level.  It is an act of self-defense. Extremely fast-growing native shrubs and trees take over every space that is not regularly cut back in this hot, damp climate.

Crepe myrtle trees Opelousas Louisiana
A garden has been planted around the Oplousas Louisiana courthouse including purple and pink Crepe myrtles.

The exception to this emphasis on lawns, are the Crepe myrtle trees (Lagerstroemia indica) planted by homeowners. They are ubiquitous.

These natives of southern China were introduced into Charleston, South Carolina by plant explorer and botanist to King Louis XVI, André Michaux, in the mid 1700s.  The name is sometimes spelled Crape myrtle, but Crepe myrtle now seems preferred.  Whatever the spelling, they took the South like wildfire.  People loved them.

hot pink crepe myrtle flowers
This hot pink color seems to be the most popular Crepe myrtle. It is a bright contrast to the green of the South and the brown of the southwest.

And Crepe myrtles loved the heat, lots of sunlight and the slightly acidic soil.

Some newer hybrids have been developed to tolerate chillier winter conditions, including frost.  And–surprisingly–they are somewhat drought tolerant.

Correcting alkaline soil conditions

It’s that “acidic soil” part that is an issue in a hot, dry climate. Most of the soils in the desert Southwest are alkaline, but alkaline soils can be corrected to a soil condition that Crepe myrtles love in two ways:

  • Add 4 to 6 inches of organic mulch and dig it in to a depth of one foot. Within a year or two the soil will become more neutral.  Mulch should be added every year.
  • Add sulphur to the soil and dig it in which will also balance the pH.  While this maybe a faster way to rebalance soil, be very careful with this because too much sulphur can be harmful.

And be sure to deep water your Crepe myrtle tree at least once a month in summer. Drought tolerant doesn’t mean “no-water-required.”

Here are some Crepe myrtles I’ve admired in Louisiana:
plant explorer and botanist to King Louis XVI André Michaux ink and hot pink crepe myrtles
Two colors of Crepe myrtles planted together. The neighbor, behind, planted a white one which is now at least 25 feet tall.
row of crape myrtle trees
These Crepe myrtles have been carefully pruned to allow an open area beneath them on the University of Louisiana campus. Their broad growth is a characteristic of the hybrid. Some hybrids grow tall and narrow, some broad, and there are dwarf hybrids that are perfect for hedges.
White crepe myrtle tree Lafayette Louisiana
White Crepe myrtle trees are less common than the various shades of pink and purple. This one was ladened with white flowers. This home actually has a small garden planted around it!


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  1. Where to get free or cheap trees for your garden
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  3. Cover up that naked wall
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  6. Four desert trees good for soil, 4 toxic ones
  7. Plants that bloom even in mid-summer scorching heat
  8. Follow 90F degree rule for planting


Summer Do’s and Don’ts and Spying on your Garden

I have to apologize for not posting on the Hot Gardens blog for a while.  As some of you already know I have been traveling for several months and blogging on the road can be a challenge.

In the U.K. many gardeners are now calling for a return to roadside and backyard natural meadows. “Stop mowing”, they say.  Not only can a meadow be beautiful it will support insects and animals that are under threat by climate change.  This is a practice that Prince Charles has advocated for decades. His castles are surrounded by native meadows not tidy mowed lawns.

superbloom flowers
Flowers in the Sonora desert outside Calexico

This wet Spring those of us who live in the Southwest had a rare glimpse of how desert meadows can look during the amazing Super Bloom that swept across the West. Yellow, orange and golden flowers everywhere!  People, birds, insects and animals loved it. The rainstorms have finally slowed down and the Super Bloom meadows have now vanished.

Even without a meadow in your backyard you can help support native insects and animals, by adding a water source somewhere on your property.  It doesn’t have to be a fountain.  Simply put a few pebbles and small rocks in the bottom of an old pie pan then add water to it daily to help sustain the life of native creatures you may never even see. The pebbles give birds and insects someplace to perch while drinking the water. Putting out a larger container of water might also attract native night visitors like deer or rabbits.

If you are eager to see which creatures are visiting your “water hole” or “desert oasis”–whatever you want to call it–install a motion activated video camera aimed at that pie tin or water bucket. Some of these cameras  are now priced below $80.

Lantana camera in fountain
Lantana overflowing a fountain that has been repurposed as a flower container.

And, finally, just a reminder that when the temperature reaches 90°F on a daily basis, you should slow down fertilizing your garden. In the extreme heat that will continue into Fall, plants hunker down to survive.  With the exception of a very few summer bloomers, in hot, dry climates plants don’t waste energy on growing or blooming during summer. Feeding them lightly perhaps monthly will help them survive.  Water your garden regularly, however.

If you would like to follow my travels around the U.S. go to Wandering Lady and become a “Fellow Traveler”. I have been on the road since March and am now in New Orleans. Happy gardening!


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Be a superhero! Plant flowers and save the world’s food supply

Okay.  Maybe that headline is a bit extreme…but it is not that far off.  Here’s why.

As we all have heard, bees seem to be vanishing all over the planet. And without them to pollinate edible plants–whether tomatoes in Pasadena or romaine in Yuma or pecans in the San Pedro river valley–we humans may be in trouble and face food shortages.

And it turns out that flowers can be part of the solution.

Red and Yellow cherry tomatoes Hot Gardens

At a recent gardening event in Los Angeles a speaker recommended planting annual flowers between tomato plants to encourage more bees to pollinate the tomatoes while they are seeking nectar from the larger, flashier annual flowers. It helps keep the bees well fed and the bee colony thriving. Tomato plants will produce more abundantly, too.

“Wait a minute”, you say. “There are no commercial growers near me and I’m not growing vegetables in my backyard. Why should I encourage bees?”

The answer is that you can become part of a larger effort to sustain genetic diversity all over the planet.  That’s where the Gardener-Superhero role comes in.

As I look at many desert style gardens filled with agaves and other rarely flowering plants I realized that our new water-wise gardens are creating starvation conditions for our friends the bees. Not enough variety, not enough flowers blooming for not a long enough time.  Worse yet, in many desert areas, the native plants that could provide nectar to bees are being removed to make way for houses and roads.

It is, however, not necessary to plant water-guzzling plants to have bee-friendly flowers in a hot, dry garden.  Here are some that will thrive and  produce flowers over a long period without running up your water bill.

Lantana ground cover mixed colors
The low-growing Lantana (Lantana montevidensis) comes in many colors these days.

Low-growing Lantana (Lantana montevidensis)  is one of the best and most readily available flowering plants for hot, dry gardens. Bees and butterflies love it! It blooms for as long as 9 or 10 months out of the year and because it is a perennial, rather than an annual, you will not have to replace it every year. Be aware that the purple and white varieties bloom for a much shorter time than the gold, yellow or varigated Lantanas. Upkeep is easy: in mid-winter cut the low-growing branches back to a foot or so in length.

Instead of the low-growing lantana, however, consider planting Lantana camera.  It grows to 6 feet tall and makes a very colorful, bee-friendly hedge. A light mid-winter trimming is all the maintenance needed.

Next, Rosemary (Rosemarinus officinalis) attracts bees like a magnet and can provide a delicious herb for your table. Plant several about 2 feet apart to create a rosemary hedge or simply put one plant outside near your back door to clip and use the aromatic leaves in bread or for baking chicken.

Lavender (Lavendula) is another tasty and aromatic herb that bees love as much as humans do.  I prefer French lavender to the English or Spanish varieties, but I have to confess that I have not had much success keeping lavender plants alive from year to year. I simply replant annually.

And finally: annual sunflowers.  If you plant the seeds over a period of a couple of weeks, you will have a longer blooming period for the bees to harvest the nectar. Then later, birds will come to harvest the seeds. You can harvest them, too, and then toast the seeds in your oven for a tasty snack.

So get out your garden gloves and think of them as the red superhero cape for gardeners.


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  7. Plants that bloom even in mid-summer scorching heat
  8. Follow 90F degree rule for planting


What’s this? A pig topiary? With succulents?

topiary pig with succulents
A moss topiary pig wearing succulents.

On a trip to Southern California last week I wandered into Brita’s Garden Center which is 3 blocks from the ocean in Seal Beach.  And there in the back of the center was a pig topiary about 3 feet long.  Someone had built a framework of chicken wire/hardware wire and added plenty  of moss.  Next, came the succulents in a variety of colors and shapes. I am sure they were drawing the moisture they need from the damp moss.

curly pig tail on topiary pig
This little pig even has a curly black tail.

This is a clever idea for a garden ornament, although in a hot dry garden these tender succulents may shrivel up when the summer heat begins to build!

I also made a trip recently to Phoenix and will be reporting about my observations at the Desert Botanical Garden shortly.


Our 8 most popular newsletters

  1. Where to get free or cheap trees for your garden
  2. Six distinctively different landscapes to replace a lawn
  3. Cover up that naked wall
  4. Five fragrant plants for your garden
  5. Nine trees to combat climate change
  6. Four desert trees good for soil, 4 toxic ones
  7. Plants that bloom even in mid-summer scorching heat
  8. Follow 90F degree rule for planting


Surprise! Sun-loving Iris are drought tolerant, but daffodils–not so much

White iris Arlington Garden Pasadena

How I love the ruffled beauty of iris and when I discovered, after moving to the desert, that iris are tougher than their delicate flowers look I became an even bigger fan of these spring-bloomers.  They need only a little water and after the flowers have faded the iris leaves create an attractive upright element in a garden border.

Some people make the mistake a cutting the leaves back right after the flowers fade. True Confession: I don’t cut my iris back annually–only when I want to divide and replant them every few years. If you intend to transplant your iris, cut the leaves at an angle and 4 inches high before lifting them from the soil. Let the rhizomes dry out for a few days before replanting.

purple and white iris

The best time to plant iris is now so you will have flowers in spring. Unlike daffodils, lilies, crocus or other plants with bulbs which should be planted deep, iris have rhizomes (thick bulbus roots) which should be planted flat and shallowly in an area that receives at least 6 hours of sun a day. Just put a thin layer of soil over the rhizomes–not a thick layer of mulch.  It is important that the soil drains well; iris rhizomes can rot with too much water.  And using high nitrogen fertilizer is a no-no for iris.

Oh, one other thing: there are iris that bloom both in Spring and Fall.  When I first learned about them I was thrilled with the prospect of iris twice a year. It turns out, however, they’re really not suitable for arid gardens because they require a great deal of watering.

While I mentioned daffodils and lilies, etc. most of them will not survive in an arid garden. One friend is Tucson, however, planted Paperwhite Narcissus in a very sheltered corner of her garden and they have survived and bloomed again and again.

Gladiolus dalenii

Many gardeners in arid climates have success with South African plants that grow from bulbs like this Gladiolus Dalenii. This gladiolus does not have the big, flashy blooms we often associate with “glads”, but it will survive in an arid garden.  For other South African plants suitable for hot, dry gardens, take a look at the Pacific Horticulture Society website.  


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