Category: drought gardens

Fixing that neglected side yard

It’s long. It’s narrow. And a home’s side yard is usually given little attention. Perhaps the original builder or an earlier owner spread a layer of rocky mulch on the soil and added a few stepping stones along the unused passageway from the front to the back of your home. But often it is not even considered part of the garden.

I have to confess that I ignored my current home’s side yard. A previous resident had, in fact, covered the 10 foot wide strip with reddish brown rock mulch. No stepping stones, however. There are pockets of grass where baby Mourning Doves huddle together and, in another corner, one rugged, volunteer Lantana plant survives. On one side of this passageway is a 6 ft. tall wood fence and on the other, the pale, sand-colored stucco wall for my living room. No windows — thank goodness.

Then, one day this last summer when it was once again 110 degrees fahrenheit outside here in Arizona I realized how much cooler that side of my home–the south side–would be if I planted something tall and shady there–a tree that was very drought resistant and wouldn’t die in relentless 100F+ heat.

Two drought tolerant trees for shade

My first thought was to install a Palo Verde tree in late October or November, when Fall planting season starts. I love this Arizona native’s brilliant yellow blossoms in April but once the flowers are gone, it would only provide a light screen effect with its leafless branches. Not much help countering the blasting sunlight in summer.

Then, I thought, what about another favorite of mine, the long-blooming Chitalpa (Chitalpa x tashkentsis)? Its branches would be ladened with pink flowers for months on end. And Chitalpa trees have leaves to cast more shade than the Palo Verde. Better yet, they grow fast and are so tough that in Las Vegas and Tucson they’re planted as street trees.

But I had to face reality: the passageway is only 10 feet wide and both the Palo Verde and the Chitalpa should be planted a minimum of 15 feet away from the side of a house.

So, a tall, skinny tree was called for–like an Italian Cypress (Cupressus sempervirens) which I know grows in Los Angeles and the Mojave desert. I haven’t seen many of them here in Sonoran desert gardens. A friend in Vegas planted a wall of them but looking at her garden now, maybe that is not the solution–especially when I check the price for 5 or 6 trees. I’ve been told that they suffer from red mites and if not watered deeply they will die.

Thanksgiving and cooler weather arrived and I stopped thinking about shady trees for my side yard. But in that doldrum week between Christmas and New Year, I began to consider it again.

Tough shrubs are a shady solution

Shrubs, I decided. Big, leafy, drought tolerant shrubs–maybe 5,6 or 7 feet tall–planted like a wall of shade next to the house. They will never grow tall enough to shade and cool the roof, but drought tolerant shrubs could block some of the blasting sunlight heating up the stucco. (Yes, Yes, I know I wrote about shrubs to cool concrete block walls last January. I’m now following my own advice.)

lantana hedge in Pasadena

Texas rangers (Leucophyllum frutescens) and upright Lantanas (Lantana camara) immediately came to mind. Both bloom often throughout the year, usually after some rain falls.

With some strategic trimming colorful Lantanas, like the ones in a hedge in Pasadena, can be encouraged to grow to 5 feet high. The Texas Rangers, however, I plan to leave untrimmed. I hate what commercial “gardeners” do to these beautiful, loose shrubs: whacking them into a lollipop shape with most of the lovely purple flowers cut off.

I’ll plant in February when we have had more rain and the soil is beginning to warm up. Now to figure out what to do to my back yard where a neighbor’s small tree died last year. It shaded both our yards and cut off the view from two homes behind us. Maybe that’s the right place for a Palo Verde or Chitalpa. I’ll let you know.

Our 8 most popular newsletters

  1. Where to get free or cheap trees for your garden
  2. Six distinctively different landscapes to replace a lawn
  3. Cover up that naked wall
  4. Five fragrant plants for your garden
  5. Nine trees to combat climate change
  6. Four desert trees good for soil, 4 toxic ones
  7. Plants that bloom even in mid-summer scorching heat
  8. Follow 90F degree rule for planting

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Harvesting monsoon rain saves gardens

Climate change clearly has arrived in the American Southwest with scorching heat daily. And sadly, no monsoon rains yet, even though monsoon season officially started on June 15th. 

We all hope that storms will be sweeping in from the Gulf of Mexico and Sea of Cortes soon. That’s what the TV weather forecasters keep telling us nightly. So now is the time to prepare to capture that rain water. And by doing it now you will already be prepared to harvest rainfall again when winter storms arrive. (6 hours after I posted this a fierce monsoon storm struck Tucson. Maybe I should have posted it earlier.)

There are basically two methods to keep water in your garden for future use. One is to save it in above-ground or below-ground containers and the other is to help the rainfall percolate into the soil instead of running off your property and away from your plants.

Start with your flower beds

While most flower beds are mounded — hopefully because you add a thick layer of organic mulch twice a year — you may want to consider digging little basins in the center of the beds to capture as much rain as possible. Be careful not to damage the roots of your plants. The water will then seep into the earth for future use by the plants.

If you plant in raised boxes, be sure to have good drainage on the bottom or during a heavy downpour your planter may flood and drown the plants.

High priced infiltration or on the cheap

Infiltration, in its costly form, involves digging a large pit in your yard to hold rain runoff from your roof. This means rain gutters and downspouts must be installed. The pit must be lined with a strong, permeable material and must have an overflow to channel excess water away from your home. Water will seep from the pit into the surrounding soil, thus “irrigating from underground.” Consult a landscape architect or soils engineer if you plan to do this.

In the less expensive version of infiltration, dig or drill narrow, deep holes spaced apart in a circle around trees and shrubs. These holes will fill with rain which will then seep into the soil. To do this effectively, you may have to line the holes with strong, permeable material to prevent the sides from collapsing into the holes while allowing water to escape into the root zone. Some people recommend using French drains, those metal drain pipes with holes, installed vertically like mini-wells.

In the super-cheap version, very coarse gravel or small rocks may also keep the holes from collapsing. Deep watering like this will encourage trees and shrubs to grow deeper, stronger roots. And deeper roots mean more stability when the seasonal winds howl across the landscape in Spring and Fall.

Install cisterns or rain barrels

Our last suggestion is to add a cistern or rain barrel to capture rainfall which you can use later by pumping the water out for irrigation. Unlike infiltration which is designed to allow water to spread out underground during and after a storm, a cistern is supposed to hold water in the container, not diffuse it.

If you want to add an underground cistern–which is essentially a well filled with rainwater–you should consult with a landscape architect or soils engineer because there are engineering and permit issues involved. The sides and bottom must be sealed to prevent water from escaping and the system must have an overflow drain. If water overflows in the wrong direction you may have serious and potentially expensive erosion problems from damage to your home or your neighbor’s house!

On the other hand there is a simple way to capture rain: buy a big plastic barrel or one of the large above ground cisterns–prices start at about $70 and go up into the thousands depending upon the size. It can be a quick and easy method to store the rainfall from the downspouts on your roof to use later. The big risk here is that the rain falls so intensely that the barrel overflows and starts flooding the area before you notice it.

Are cisterns still illegal?

Happily and wisely, the laws in Colorado and Utah banning water harvesting have changed. Now Coloradans can have 2 rain barrels with a total capacity of 110 gallons of water for use on their own property. In Utah homeowners can save up to 2500 gallons of rainfall in above or below ground cisterns for use on the same property. In both these states, please check for specific regulations.

Many other states, including Texas, Nevada and California, now have laws supporting rainfall harvesting and rules regarding usage. These states now allow saving rainwater that falls on your roof and using it in your garden. Using the water for drinking water is banned in some states, discouraged in others. My advice: do not drink it. Give it to your garden.

Our 8 most popular newsletters

  1. Where to get free or cheap trees for your garden
  2. Six distinctively different landscapes to replace a lawn
  3. Cover up that naked wall
  4. Five fragrant plants for your garden
  5. Nine trees to combat climate change
  6. Four desert trees good for soil, 4 toxic ones
  7. Plants that bloom even in mid-summer scorching heat
  8. Follow 90F degree rule for planting

Visit my author’s site to see the books I’ve published

I would love to welcome you as a new subscriber. Sign up today. (And no spam. I promise!)

For goodness sakes, cover up that naked wall

Okay, you removed that thirsty grass in your front yard. You’ve also planted a tree or two or three around your home, shading at least part of your yard and the house, reducing the temperature. But off to the edge of your property–if your home is like most in the U.S. Southwest–is a dreaded gray concrete block wall.

That wall, if left bare, is a heat magnet. Nakedly exposed to direct sunlight the concrete absorbs heat during the day, even on cool days. Then after sundown, the wall releases the heat into the air creating a pool of warmth surrounding your home — just when you’re trying to cool things off at days end. And as the climate changes the wall-heater effect will only grow more intense. So what’s a smart gardener to do?

4 ways to help walls keep their cool
pomegranate fruit on bush

Plant shrubs in front of the wall. In one of my gardens I planted a row of the “Wonderful” variety of pomegranates (Punica granatum). These fast growers will reach a height of 6 to 10 feet. You may want to keep them trimmed to match the wall height because they can reach twice that height. Pomegranates need very little water. A special bonus with pomegranates is, of course, the fruit you can harvest in the late summer. In Fall the leaves turn a lovely shade of yellow before they drop. If you do not harvest the fruit you will have shrubs with bright red “ornaments” on them during the holidays. To see other shrubs for hot dry gardens, go here.

pampas grass hiding a wall
The lawn by this row of Pampas grass has since been removed. Behind it is a dull gray block wall.

Plant tall grasses in front of the wall

On another wall in the same garden, a previous owner had planted Pampas grass (Cortaderia selloana). After a summer’s growth Pampas grass will be 8-10 feet high plus another 5-6 feet of seed plumes. And it does all this with little need for irrigation or fertilizer. By mid-winter, this perennial should be cut back to 18 inches tall. Be sure to wear gloves and a long sleeve shirt when you cut it back because the leaf edges are rough and serrated. It will re-grow to the same height in the following summer. 

Avoid planting the variety of Pampas Grass called Cortaderia jubata which is a highly invasive weed. Given the right conditions — usually by a stream — it will self-seed and spread wildly forcing out native plants.

privet hedge deergrass skirt

If you want to avoid Pampas grass — and many people do–another choice would be Deer grass (Muhlenbergia rigens) which grows to about 2 feet tall during the summer. It too grows seed plumes in Fall, but they are more modest in size than the ones of Pampas grass. While Deer grass will not cover up the entire height of your wall, it can be a base plant used with other shrubs. Unlike Pampas Grass it does not need to be trimmed back in winter. Needs very little water. To see other ornamental grasses for hot dry gardens, go here.

Install trellises along the wall

Trumpet creeper campsis radicans

Plant climbers on the trellises–like a Trumpet Creeper (Campsis radicans) from the eastern U.S. It is a self-attaching vine with bright yellow and orange blossoms.

This vine can grow as much 40 feet in one year! Because it is such a vigorous grower and can become invasive, it is best planted in a large container beside the trellis or arbor. It is tolerant of a variety of soil conditions and of heat and cold. Needs moderate water in summer.

To see other fast-growing climbers and vines for hot dry gardens, go here.

For the unexpected — Kool Deck your wall

Paint your concrete block wall with “Kool Deck” or another heat-reducing finish normally used on pool decks. These finishes come in a variety of colors so you can give your garden walls a custom look.

Our 8 most popular newsletters

  1. Where to get free or cheap trees for your garden
  2. Six distinctively different landscapes to replace a lawn
  3. Cover up that naked wall
  4. Five fragrant plants for your garden
  5. Nine trees to combat climate change
  6. Four desert trees good for soil, 4 toxic ones
  7. Plants that bloom even in mid-summer scorching heat
  8. Follow 90F degree rule for planting

Visit my author’s site to see the books I’ve published.

Best 9 trees to combat climate change in the Southwest

Here in the hot, dry region of the U.S. Southwest tree planting has become more urgent as year after year the days get hotter and drier. The driving idea behind the tree planting efforts is to create a green canopy, a natural, cooling umbrella over cities.

In Las Vegas, the Mayor’s goal is to have 60,000 new trees planted by 2050.

In Tucson, the mayor is more ambitous: she wants to see a million new trees planted by 2030. El Paso, too, has set a million tree goal.

And In Los Angeles, one volunteer group, City Plants, installs 20,000 trees for free along the city streets every year. (More about free or almost-free trees in Western cities in my next post.)

If you want to do your part, but on a personal, residential scale, consider planting one or more of these trees–plus one shrub, the Chaste tree. Many are as wide as they are tall. They are all drought-tolerant and cast shade to cool your home and garden. I’ve added information about how tall the tree should grow, how fast it will grow and how long the tree should live. (Hint: All but one should outlive you!)

Trees that bloom in the Spring and Summer

Sweet Acacia (Vachellia farnesiana) is a species of thorny shrub or small tree. Brilliant yellow ball-like flowers, which are used in perfume industry. Will grow to 20 feet tall x 20 wide, moderate to fast grower. Lives 20 to 30 years.

Palo Verde (Parkinsonia florida) is a native to the Sonoran desert and is recognizable by the green color of its trunk and branches. Almost leafless most of the year, so it casts only a light shade. It bursts into brilliant yellow bloom in April. Grows 2 or 3 feet a year to 15 to 30 feet tall with an umbrella-like canopy. Lives 100+ years.

Desert Willow (Chilopsis linearis) can be grown as a small, messy tree or multi-trunk shrub 30 feet tall. Grows 2 to 3 feet a year. Lives from 40 to over 100 years, if planted no higher than an elevation of 5,000 feet. As a desert native it needs little care but, I repeat, it is a messy tree dropping those long, brown seed pods for you to clean up.

But read about the next tree, a tidier hybrid of the Desert Willow…

Chitalpa trees (Chitalpa tashkentensis) can grow as large, multi-stemmed shrub or a single-trunk tree. Unlike its cousin the Desert Willow, Chitalpa trees were created to be sterile and do not drop those long, pointy seed pods. For that reason the chitalpa is often planted as a street tree that blooms for months on end. Loves the endless sun shine and grows very fast to 30 feet tall. And is said to live up to 150 years.

Trees that turn color in Fall

Fan Tex Rio Grande ash has leaves that turn to a brilliant gold in fall, unlike it’s cousin, the ordinary Arizona Ash (Fraxinus velutina) that lacks the golden yellow fall color. Both ash varieties are adapted for a desert climate with low water usage. It is moderately fast-growing tree that will grow to a height of 30 to 50 ft and may survive 50 years with proper care.

Chinese Pistache (Pistacia chinensis) is a pistachio hybrid that produces no nuts. In Fall the leaves on the male tree turn from green to gold to brilliant red then loses those leaves in winter. The female tree simply turns golden — not vibrant red. Grows 12 to 15 inches per year to a mature height of 25 to 40 feet tall and as wide. Should be planted in full sun; if planted in partial shade the result will be a lopsided tree.

Trees that need little maintenance

Mesquite (Prosopis velutina) commonly known as velvet mesquite, grows 12 to 24 inches per year to a mature height of 40 feet tall. Needs almost no care. It’s advisable not to plant it in a lawn that is regularly watered. Too much water or fertilizer weakens the roots of the mesquite which may then tip over during high winds. It will live for as long as 200 years. Equally durable in a desert garden are the Honey mesquite, the messy Screwbean mesquite and Chilean mesquite which has fewer thorns.

Chinese elm (Ulmus parvifolia). Capable of adding 12 to 36 inches of height per season, the drought-tolerant Chinese elm is a very rapidly growing tree with a weeping shape and deep shade underneath. Some lose their leaves in winter and others do not and it is not clear why this happens. This tree can grow to a height of 40 to 50 feet within 15 years. Lives 50 to 100 years.

A tree that produces fruit

Fig tree (Ficus carica) The common fig tree is a deciduous tree that can also be grown as a shrub or espaliered on a trellis. Produces fruit in 3 to 5 years. Grows 12 inches a year up to 30 feet tall and in its tree form ends up much wider than taller. Its large leaves cast very dark, cooling shade and a fig tree lives 50 to 200 years. For other fruit trees for the desert go here.

And my favorite shrub, the fragrant Chaste tree

Chaste (Vitex agnus-castus) is a hardy, fast-growing flowering shrub that produces bloom spikes of light purple, white, or blue flowers in mid-summer. If seeds and faded blooms are removed it will continue to flower. It has very fragrant leaves. Grows rapidly to a height of 20 feet — the size of a small tree–and lives for 15 to 20 years.

Our 8 most popular newsletters

  1. Where to get free or cheap trees for your garden
  2. Six distinctively different landscapes to replace a lawn
  3. Cover up that naked wall
  4. Five fragrant plants for your garden
  5. Nine trees to combat climate change
  6. Four desert trees good for soil, 4 toxic ones
  7. Plants that bloom even in mid-summer scorching heat
  8. Follow 90F degree rule for planting

Visit my author’s site to see books I’ve published.

Don’t let rainfall escape. Capture it.

Saving rainfall for your garden

(This post was originally written about winter rains, but is now even more applicable for desert gardens in the summer of 2023.)

Rain has finally arrived in the American Southwest.  After an almost rainless summer which made our serious drought even worse, storms are now arriving one after another from both north and south Pacific. So now is the time to capture that rain water.

Use one or more of the following methods to keep water in your garden by encouraging it to stay on your property for future use or percolate down into the soil now rather than run off into the street.

Build basins

The simplest way to capture rainfall for the plants in your garden is to dig shallow circular trenches or basins around your trees and shrubs. The basin edge should be 3 feet or more from the tree trunk and not very deep. Creating a basin all the way out to the tree canopy’s edge is ideal. An inch or two depth will create a basin to hold a good amount of water while it sinks into the earth. 

Be careful not to damage the root crown at the base of the trunk. In fact, the basin shouldn’t start right at the trunk of the tree. You want to water to go to the smaller roots further out.

While most flower beds are mounded — hopefully because you add a thick layer of organic mulch twice a year — you may want to consider digging small basins in the center of the beds to capture as much rain as possible. Again, be careful not to damage the roots of your plants.

If you plant in raised boxes, I hope you have good drainage on the bottom or during a heavy downpour your planter may flood and drown the plants.

Infiltration–high priced or on the cheap

Infiltration, in its expensive form, involves digging a sizeable pit on your property which will receive water from rain runoff from your roof. This means rain gutters and downspouts must be installed. The pit must be lined with a strong but permeable material and have an overflow to channel excess water safely away from your home. Water will seep from the pit into the surrounding soil, thus “irrigating from underground”. Consult a landscape architect or soils engineer if you plan to do this.

In the less expensive version of infiltration, dig or drill narrow, deep holes spaced apart in a circle around trees and shrubs. These holes will fill with rain which will then seep into the soil. To do this effectively, you may have to line the holes with strong but permeable material to help prevent the sides from collapsing into the holes while allowing water to escape into the root zone. Some people recommend using French drains, the drain pipes with holes, set vertically into the soil so they are mini-wells.

In the super-cheap version, really coarse gravel or small rocks may also keep the holes from collapsing. Deep watering like this will encourage trees and shrubs to grow deeper, stronger roots. And deeper roots mean more stability when winds howl across the landscape in Spring and Fall.

Add a cistern or rain barrel… or seven

Our last suggestion is to add a cistern or rain barrel to capture rainfall which you can use later by pumping the water out for irrigation. Unlike infiltration which is designed to allow water to spread out underground during a rain storm, a cistern is supposed to hold water in the container, not diffuse it.

If you want to add an underground cistern–which is essentially a well filled with rainwater–you should consult with a landscape architect or soils engineer because there are certain critical engineering issues involved. The sides and bottom must be sealed to prevent water from escaping and the system must have an overflow drain. If water overflows in the wrong direction you may have serious and potentially expensive erosion problems.

On the other hand buying a big plastic barrel or one of the large above ground cisterns–prices start at about $100 and go up depending upon the size–can be a quick and easy method to store the rainfall from the downspouts on your roof until you use it later.

Are cisterns illegal?

In Colorado and Utah having a cistern on one’s own property to collect water used to be illegal. But no longer. Now Coloradans can have 2 rain barrels with a total capacity of 110 gallons of water for use on their own property. In Utah homeowners can save up to 2500 gallons in above or below ground cisterns to store water for use on the same property. In both these states, please check for specific local regulations.

Many other states, including Nevada and California, have regulations or are planning to enact them, about water harvesting and usage. California, for example, is encouraging water harvesting. To see if your state has regulations, go here.

Our 8 most popular newsletters

  1. Where to get free or cheap trees for your garden
  2. Six distinctively different landscapes to replace a lawn
  3. Cover up that naked wall
  4. Five fragrant plants for your garden
  5. Nine trees to combat climate change
  6. Four desert trees good for soil, 4 toxic ones
  7. Plants that bloom even in mid-summer scorching heat
  8. Follow 90F degree rule for planting

Visit my author’s site to see the books I’ve published.

Happy Solstice – winter and summer!

My wish on today’s Solstice is that 2021 will be a better year for everyone! 2020 can’t end soon enough!

The light at the end of the proverbial tunnel is brighter now that the roll-out of COVID 19 vaccines has begun.

Now, you can make the natural world better this coming year by planting a tree that’s suitable for your climate to cast shade on your garden and home. The world continues to grow warmer and a tree will help cool it down a bit over the coming decades.

And, if you still have a grassy lawn, make 2021 the year you remove it and plant water-wise shrubs instead. Lawns are fine in wet climates, but an unwise use of water in hot dry gardens.

And, keep in mind that by planting long-living shrubs and trees you are also providing homes for Mother Nature’s other creatures, especially birds and insects.

May your garden thrive in 2021!

Carol Lightwood
Hot Gardens

The photo at the top of this page was taken at the Tucson Botanical Garden in December 2020.

Frugal DIY gardening tips for Fall planting

For thousands of years frugal gardening was the only way to garden. Instead of buying starter plants at a local nursery or garden center, people planted seeds they had collected and saved during the previous harvest. Or swapped seeds and cuttings with friends and family. Or divided their own existing plants.

They didn’t buy mulch or composting equipment from those Big Box garden stores either. For century after century they created soil amendments themselves or did without. All gardening was do-it-yourself gardening.

This thrifty approach still works in the 21st century and may be more important than ever, especially for those of us whose gardens scorched right down to the bare earth during the relentless heat this summer. Replacing the plants that died as well as introducing new ones may be what you are facing this Fall. And the expense can be shocking. You may even have moments when you think: Buy groceries? Or buy for the garden?

So here is what to do to create a money-wise, water-wise garden this year.

Your Library is Your Frugal Gardening Friend

Hundreds of public libraries from coast to coast have turned their old card catalogs into bins containing packets of free herb and vegetable seeds. The seeds are most commonly collected locally and packaged in carefully labeled plastic bags by volunteer gardeners. Because the seeds come from their own gardens you know that they should thrive in your climate.

seeds in library card catalog

If your local library does not offer this service, ask them to start one of these “seed banks”. Master Gardeners or members of gardening clubs may be willing to help launch this free seed service.

There are also free seed swap services online. I haven’t used any of them, so I won’t make a specific website recommendation. If you use one, keep in mind that seeds that thrive in one location may not in another, for example, in a hot dry garden. It’s best to find local seed sources.

And DO NOT plant any seeds that come from China or other foreign countries. Don’t even put them in the garbage. Destroy them or turn them in to the US Dept. of Agriculture.



Multiply by Division

Plants that grow from bulbs, corms or rhizomes, which are basically fat roots, can be easily doubled or tripled by dividing them after they have finished their growth season. Note: In most U.S. Southwest climates, it is not necessary to dig up and store these over the winter. Leave them in ground year ’round unless your garden experiences hard freezes.

Among the easiest to multiply by dividing is the drought-tolerant Bearded Iris (Iridaceae). Every 3 or 4 years simply dig up the rhizomes, trim the leaves back to about 5 or 6 inches, then cut the rhizomes apart with a sharp, clean knife. Allow the rhizomes to dry for a couple of weeks, then shallowly replant in late September or October. Don’t wait until Spring.

lily of nile canna lilies
Canna Lilies and blue Lily-0f-the-Nile Agapanthus.

When you divide Canna Lilies (Canna indica) there’s no need to dry out the rhizomes for weeks before replanting, but do wait until it has stopped blooming and the leaves have died down before you dig it up. After you’ve cut the rhizomes into pieces each with a short length of stem attached, let them sit for one or two days. Once the raw cut side has scabbed over you can replant.

Daylilies (Homercallis) and  Agapanthus also lend themselves to being divided. Again, dig them up, divide the large root ball clumps and replant. No long drying out period is required. You should do this every 3 to 5 years to encourage these plants to keep blooming beautifully. After replanting be sure to water them frequently until they are established.

Cutting it up

Take cuttings of your favorite lavender and replant. Bees will thank you!

You can multiply many shrubby perennial herbs, like salvias, rosemary, thyme, lavender, marjoram and oregano simply by taking a 4 to 8 inch long cutting of a stem with two to four leaves attached, then putting that stem in a pot of natural soil from your garden or use commercial potting soil mix. I prefer to mix native soil with potting mix. Take the cutting from fresh new growth for best results and keep the soil damp until ready to transplant into your garden.

You can also take cuttings from your favorite Geranium (Pelargonium) and simply stick them into a pot of soil or potting mix. Keep the soil damp and — voila — you will have vigorous new geraniums in bloom next summer.

Garden Shows mean big savings on uncommon plants

Because people who belong to specialty flower clubs and garden clubs usually cultivate rare and uncommon varieties of plants, at their plant sales you are likely to find unusual hybrids and colors to add variety to your garden.

Check out nearby botanical gardens, too. They often have ongoing plant sales to help support their operations.

Because of Covid-19, however, this is not a good year to hold a neighborhood plant swap in your front yard or driveway. Garden club sales and Botanical Garden events may also be cancelled because of the pandemic.

Not So Perennial

santolina and petunias
The short-lived Santolina (Santolina incana)
with petunias in a flower border suitable for a
hot, dry climate.  The annual petunia will not
last long in hot summer weather.

Now many of these plants are ones we think of as “perennials”, but perennials are not really perennial. They don’t last forever. Over a period of 4 to 10 years you may have to replace every perennial in your garden so DIY frugal gardening can be a real budget saver.

Some perennials don’t even last that long. One of our favorite plants for a perennial flower border in a hot dry garden is the Santolina. I love its brilliant yellow ball-like flowers but it rarely lasts more than 2 or 3 years and then must be replaced to remain beautiful.

And Finally: A Wake Up Call

And remember, it’s best to plant in Fall when the average daily temperature falls below 90F (32C). After all, that’s when Mother Nature plants her seeds. And plants that survived this summer’s blistering heat and have been in summer dormancy are now waking up and they are hungry. Feed them well in the next few weeks so they will be strong and not need replacing next year.

Our 8 most popular newsletters

  1. Where to get free or cheap trees for your garden
  2. Six distinctively different landscapes to replace a lawn
  3. Cover up that naked wall
  4. Five fragrant plants for your garden
  5. Nine trees to combat climate change
  6. Four desert trees good for soil, 4 toxic ones
  7. Plants that bloom even in mid-summer scorching heat
  8. Follow 90F degree rule for planting

Saving a garden in relentless heat

As of today Tucson has suffered under daily high temperatures over 105F (44.5C) for 39 straight days. And the TV weather lady tells us these conditions will keep on going. No monsoon rain relief in sight in this part of the Sonoran desert. A friend in Las Vegas tells me it is as bad up there in the Mojave desert.

While this persistent heat is awful for humans, we can take shelter in air conditioning. Plants in the garden, however, cannot. So, what to do to help your plants survive this–or any other–extended period of heat?

The first thing that may come to mind is to increase watering the garden. Sadly, deep watering plants may or may not help. With day-after-day of temperatures of 90-100F+, some plants, particularly non-desert plants, cannot absorb water faster than it is evaporating through the plant’s leaves. Death by dehydration results.

Here, however, are 3 ways to help your plants survive until Fall.

Shade Cloth is a quick remedy

tucson tree under shade cloth
Photo Copyright by Tiffany Weerts 2020. An improvised shade cover in Tucson during a long hot spell.

Shade cloth is a fast solution for plants that appear to be suffering from heat exhaustion. You can buy it today, hang it up over vulnerable plants or borders in your garden and the protection starts immediately even if you have to just tack it up in a temporary make-shift way. Shade cloth comes in variety of weights and with UV protection.

Double pot to cool roots

For the plants that are in pots the heat and afternoon sunlight can be especially brutal. Placing pots where they will be in shade for most of the day is a recommended, but that may not be enough. Again, the problem is death by dehydration–water evaporating too rapidly through the leaves and from the potting soil. Compounding that problem is that terra cotta and metal pots heat up and can “cook” the roots.

Keeping potted plants in shade can help them survive, but double-potting increases the likelihood of the plants surviving summer heat.

However, one way to help your potted plants survive on the patio in summer is to set each pot in a second, larger container. Then put an insulating layer of dried moss or coarse organic mulch between the two pots. This will keep the inner pot cooler and protect plant roots from sizzling heat. You may want to try to keep the insulating layer damp–but beware of soaking it because the water could pool inside the outer pot and soak up into the inner one. You could end up drowning the plants from the bottom.

Consider using one of the newer plastic pots as your outer pot. They are far more attractive than they used to be and conduct far less heat than terra cotta pots. The insulation may also be helpful in winter, if you live in an area where it freezes in winter.

Controversial polymers

Polymers, those water-retaining gel crystals, are frequently used in flower pots to help cut down on watering and retain water in the soil for the plants’ use. This isn’t an instant solution, but polymers can help over a longer term–like all those hot days ahead of us here in the Sonoran and Mojave deserts.

Recently, however, we heard a gardener advocate using water-retaining polymers in flower beds and in the soil around trees.  It sounded like a good idea — particularly in a climate where water evaporates out of the soil so rapidly.

But a little online research revealed a preliminary study which indicates that polymers may break down in our native soils into chemical components which may not be all that good for plants and people. So while polymers may be a great solution for flowering ornamental plants in pots, stick with adding organic amendments, such as crushed pecan hulls or finely ground wood chips, to your garden’s natural soil to increase its water-retaining ability. Moreover, organic amendments add nutrients to the soil, which polymers don’t. If you would like to review the research yourself, to go Google and search for: “Polymers Gardening.”

And if the heat kills most of your plants–which is happening in many gardens here in Tucson now–you can replant in late September or early October.

Our 8 most popular newsletters

  1. Where to get free or cheap trees for your garden
  2. Six distinctively different landscapes to replace a lawn
  3. Cover up that naked wall
  4. Five fragrant plants for your garden
  5. Nine trees to combat climate change
  6. Four desert trees good for soil, 4 toxic ones
  7. Plants that bloom even in mid-summer scorching heat
  8. Follow 90F degree rule for planting

Show your hot dry garden some love. It’s hungry. Give it some food today.

It is planting and mulching season both north and south of the Equator. Our friends in Australia and South Africa are heading into warmer weather and  Spring gardening.

Love Thy Garden gnome Hot Garden
Just the right sign for this time of year!

Meanwhile those of us in the arid U.S. Southwest are preparing our gardens for Fall and Winter now that the daytime air temperatures have cooled down. And in both parts of the globe, plants are waking up from a months-long dormancy and they are hungry!

Of course, you could just toss some fertilizer here and there around your garden and call that “Plant Breakfast”. That, however is the equivalent of giving your children spoonfuls of sugar for breakfast.

Instead, to give your plants the long-lasting, healthy nutrition they need for strong growth and good root development here is what to do:

Garden tool for loosening soil Hot Gardens
This sturdy tool can loosen the soil in a garden that has dried out and hardened over summer.

Loosen the soil around shrubs and trees–but do it very carefully.  You do not want to damage the plant roots.  I saw this handy tool for loosening soil at Orchard Supply (which is going out of business.)  It looks as if it breaks up the earth much deeper than one of those rolling garden gadgets.  And the deeper the soil is opened up the deeper the irrigation water and nutrients will go.

As you do this, you may want to add in garden topsoil to the native soil in your planting beds–mixing it all together.  Read the label to see if the “Top Soil” has been enriched with fertilizer.

Soil builder for trees and shrubs Hot Gardens
The best soil additive for trees is not the same formula as the best for grasses.

Check with the best independently owned plant nursery in your area for the fertilizer that is right for soil conditions in your area and the kinds of plants you have in your garden. Usually the people at independent nurseries are more knowledgeable about local soil problems than folks at the big box garden centers.

While I am not a big fan of dumping chemicals into gardens, certain conditions require specialized treatment.  See this post about iron deficiencies and alkaline soil for one example.  And this post about not adding polymers to your flower beds. 

You may even want to test your soil with an inexpensive pH testing kit which you can buy online or at a local garden center before you decide which type of fertilizer or other soil additive is best for your garden.

For whatever it is worth I have been hearing very good things about aged manures and even fish manures.  I can’t guarantee that they are better than other types of fertilizers, however, and they may be more expensive. Manures can also be filled with weed seeds unless they have been sterilized.

Organic topsoil Hot Gardens 2018
Be sure the additives that go in your garden are organic. Avoid man-made chemicals if at all possible.

Okay.  You have done the best you can to get the soil prepped so the next step is to add heaps of organic mulch. Some bagged mulch has the fine texture of good garden soil and will mix in nicely.  Other mulch, like wood chips, is coarser.

If your budget allows it, I would suggest that you use both with the coarse mulch on top to protect the fine mulch and/or soil beneath from blowing away in the Fall winds. The coarse mulch releases its nutrients much more slowly providing food for your plants for a longer period of time.  The fine mulch often has extra fertilizer in it to give plants a quick boost.  Be careful that you don’t end up with too much fertilizer that would force plants to grow and bloom when they ordinarily would not want to.  During winter time, plant growth should be in the roots to get ready for an above-ground growth spurt in Spring.

Mother Nature plants in Fall and so should you, so I will write about best practices for Fall planting in the next post.

Pig barbeque Hot Gardens
Out front of our local Orchard Supply was this pink BBQ pig. Love it!

Full Disclosure:  I went to Orchard Supply to take photos of bags of garden mulch and ended up taking all the photos in this post at the store. “Thank You, OSH!”  They are going out of business and there are good bargains.

CLIMATE CHANGE.   One reason there have rarely been hurricanes as far north as Southern California is because of the cooler ocean current off the California coast. Hurricanes need ocean water with a temperature of 80°+ to keep their power.

Hurrican Rosa clouds Hot GArdens
Clouds began to drift over So. California this morning as Hurricane Rosa drew closer. It is not going to be a direct hit but we seem to be at the far Western edge of it.  It’s very humid, too.

Well, the ocean temperature off the So. California coast was 78° a month ago–ten degrees above normal–which appears to be warm enough.  Hurricane Rosa is on her way across upper Baja, then onto Yuma AZ and points north and will be bringing flooding monsoon-type rains to the Los Angeles and Las Vegas areas.  While rain is desirable for all of us, downpours can be dangerous.  Read more about saving rain in your garden.

Our 8 most popular newsletters

  1. Where to get free or cheap trees for your garden
  2. Six distinctively different landscapes to replace a lawn
  3. Cover up that naked wall
  4. Five fragrant plants for your garden
  5. Nine trees to combat climate change
  6. Four desert trees good for soil, 4 toxic ones
  7. Plants that bloom even in mid-summer scorching heat
  8. Follow 90F degree rule for planting

Success with Potatoes and how to grow them in a hot arid garden

In a recent post I whined a little bit about not being able to grow leafy green vegetables or tomatoes in a hot dry garden. I even gave examples of a couple of failures and recommended focusing more on the fruit trees that thrive in desert-like climates.

Well, this post is about Success with Potatoes.

Potato plant in pink pot Hot Gardens
This potato plant is a year and a half old and still producing potatoes regularly, even though insects have found the leaves to be tasty.

And for evidence I offer my niece’s pot garden.  She and her husband — actually he is the one who does most of the gardening–planted potatoes in a 8 gallon pink plastic pot a year and a half ago at the suggestion of an English friend.  Much to their surprise, it has been producing potatoes for them continuously.  They have never pulled the plant up; the potatoes seem to rise to the surface where they harvest them.

During this time the potato plant grew big and healthy in its pot in a semi-shady location. Then under the scorching 110+ degree (F)  (43 Celcius) heat earlier this year,  the plant faded back only to revive when the heat cooled back down into the 90s.  Of course, it was tucked back into full shade when the weather really heated up. And they have 2 water monitors in the shape of butterflies in the pot. I suggested they might want to double pot to help control water evaporation.

Potato plant in pot with water measurement Hot Gardens
In addition to the potato plant they grow peppers. The red leafed plant at the lower left is a seasonal addition to the patio. It will not survive hot weather.

When I wrote about the green vegetable failures I mentioned that hydroponic systems were so expensive that they seemed impractical for growing vegetables in desert-like conditions. But for potatoes and other root vegetables, like carrots, there are some very affordable systems, among them a grow bag I found on Amazon. Some have little doors near the bottom to allow you to harvest the potatoes while leaving the plant undisturbed. That seems to confirm my niece’s experience of the perpetually producing potato plant.

So here’s to potato salad year ’round from your shady patio garden!

BLUE UPDATE
In the previous post about the blue bottle garden I asked readers what they thought about the garden. The responses were not positive which was my initial reaction, too. But different people have differing ideas of beauty. I will post some more attractive lawn replacement gardens soon.

Our 8 most popular newsletters

  1. Where to get free or cheap trees for your garden
  2. Six distinctively different landscapes to replace a lawn
  3. Cover up that naked wall
  4. Five fragrant plants for your garden
  5. Nine trees to combat climate change
  6. Four desert trees good for soil, 4 toxic ones
  7. Plants that bloom even in mid-summer scorching heat
  8. Follow 90F degree rule for planting